Surviving A Dying Industry
Aug. 19, 2023 • By Jason Elhilow
DescriptionAn article exploring the shoe repair industry and how cobbler John Elhilow helps keep it alive.
MessageThis is a remaster of a podcast episode of the same name, which debuted in December 2020.
ImageJohn Elhilow
Did you know fewer than 4,000 cobbers are left in the United States? Shoe repair, a once bustling and practically required industry of yesterday, is dwindling in size. But luckily, I know a man who is keeping it alive, and he's one of the best.
A seventh-generation cobbler, John Elhilow has had almost four decades of experience fixing things that most would throw out. He has single-handedly saved thousands of shoes, boots, and more from the landfill, helping both the environment and your wallet stay green.
I decided to interview him to get his insight on this profession, wanting to see what is both keeping it alive and killing it. Because before we know it, repair may become a thing of the past... that is, unless we choose it. Choosing repair is the ONLY way it can be saved, and Elhilow makes it more than clear as to why it should live. So join me, see the journey of surviving a dying industry, and say my favorite line every time I bring this up: "Wait, shoe repair's still a thing?"
The interview started off easy, as I asked why one should choose repair over replacement in the first place. Mr. Elhilow had this to say: "Shoe repair is a very old service; it's a green service. It helps recycle and keep shoes out of the trash. It's great for clients, too, because if you keep your heel wear and shoes in a proper way, you can keep your legs, feet, and ankles balanced." The point made here is honestly something I would not think about, but it makes sense, especially for people with orthotics/custom shoes. John is a Board-Certified Pedorthist, meaning he can provide accurate modifications to help those with disabilities or physical impairments on their foot/feet. This instantly makes his business a lifesaver for some, letting those who need them live their life more comfortably. However, there are many more reasons for repair to exist, and one of his best is a tale as old as time: diversification.
"In today's world, shoe and boot repair has expanded into [many] different things. Now we do lots of backpacks, zippers, straps, jackets, handbags, luggage, you name it. All kinds of things. Repair is so much more than shoes, and it keeps it very interesting." There is something so important about mentioning this, as it gives insight into how the trade has evolved over the centuries. First, it provides even more reason to visit a cobbler like him, as their artisanship can be augmented to an assortment of jobs, big or small, shoes or not. Regardless of what you have, he can fix it, extending its life far beyond what you first dreamed. Yet, even with all of this positivity, the business has been hit with significant hardships, those being compounded by COVID-19.
"With the pandemic and everything, of course we've been hit. For the first few months, things were tough, but luckily we have bounced back enough to the point where we're still alive. My business is a people business, I need people to come, enjoy the experience, and come back again and again. I want to make sure that anyone and everyone is satisfied with their shoes, and that they will choose to repair when a hole or rip happens or a sole comes off."
Shoe repair, leather working, sewing; they are all skills that require an artistic touch and trust that a craftsperson knows what they are doing. That, above anything else, is why John has survived for so long. He regularly told me throughout our talk of how many shops that were successful for decades have crumbled in the 21st century, either because of the pandemic or the sheer fact that many cobblers are on the older end, most retiring after years of doing the grueling work behind the magic of making your favorite piece like new. And the young are not jumping at the opportunity to be an apprentice, because, as said, it is a job of both art and heavy physical labor, especially if you want to do it right. In many ways, that's why the industry's size has shrunk, yet the end of the road has not come as long as there is demand, so I wanted to see where Mr. Elhilow thinks it will be in ten years.
"The future of shoe repair really is about keeping up with the materials that we would encounter. In ten, shoe repair will have FEWER shops, but they will be the BEST shops. The most knowledgeable will make it, [but] guys that don't stay updated and sophisticated will not survive."
Fifty?
"In fifty years, depending on how shoe construction changes, [I think] we'll be able to keep up. The molded type vulcanized soles, I do them, but a lot of shops don't want to take them on. I guess that, by then, things will change a lot. Who know's how many of cobblers will exist? Ultimately, if you're able to make people feel better, give people a better quality of life, that's the bottom line. That's why I like doing it. You have to have patience, and it can be tedious, but the reward is unbelievable. That's the only way shoe repair lives."
Cobblery is not dead, but it loses a little bit of itself each year. Of course, hope is there, and fortunately for most in Massachusetts, Elhilow is close(ish) by. He has two shops, one in Waltham called Superior Shoe & Boot Repair, and the other in Holliston titled John's Shoe & Boot Repair, the latter once being his father's. So, before you chuck your Chucks or bin your belt, give John a quick thought. Trust me, you won't regret it.
And, just for the sake of it, here's a silly slogan he gave me: "So, we have a little saying, 'Shoe Smarts: Shine, Maintain, and Repair Those Shoes!' It's a great thing, and if you can keep your footwear happy, it will make you a happier person." I mean, who could say no to that?
A seventh-generation cobbler, John Elhilow has had almost four decades of experience fixing things that most would throw out. He has single-handedly saved thousands of shoes, boots, and more from the landfill, helping both the environment and your wallet stay green.
I decided to interview him to get his insight on this profession, wanting to see what is both keeping it alive and killing it. Because before we know it, repair may become a thing of the past... that is, unless we choose it. Choosing repair is the ONLY way it can be saved, and Elhilow makes it more than clear as to why it should live. So join me, see the journey of surviving a dying industry, and say my favorite line every time I bring this up: "Wait, shoe repair's still a thing?"
The interview started off easy, as I asked why one should choose repair over replacement in the first place. Mr. Elhilow had this to say: "Shoe repair is a very old service; it's a green service. It helps recycle and keep shoes out of the trash. It's great for clients, too, because if you keep your heel wear and shoes in a proper way, you can keep your legs, feet, and ankles balanced." The point made here is honestly something I would not think about, but it makes sense, especially for people with orthotics/custom shoes. John is a Board-Certified Pedorthist, meaning he can provide accurate modifications to help those with disabilities or physical impairments on their foot/feet. This instantly makes his business a lifesaver for some, letting those who need them live their life more comfortably. However, there are many more reasons for repair to exist, and one of his best is a tale as old as time: diversification.
"In today's world, shoe and boot repair has expanded into [many] different things. Now we do lots of backpacks, zippers, straps, jackets, handbags, luggage, you name it. All kinds of things. Repair is so much more than shoes, and it keeps it very interesting." There is something so important about mentioning this, as it gives insight into how the trade has evolved over the centuries. First, it provides even more reason to visit a cobbler like him, as their artisanship can be augmented to an assortment of jobs, big or small, shoes or not. Regardless of what you have, he can fix it, extending its life far beyond what you first dreamed. Yet, even with all of this positivity, the business has been hit with significant hardships, those being compounded by COVID-19.
"With the pandemic and everything, of course we've been hit. For the first few months, things were tough, but luckily we have bounced back enough to the point where we're still alive. My business is a people business, I need people to come, enjoy the experience, and come back again and again. I want to make sure that anyone and everyone is satisfied with their shoes, and that they will choose to repair when a hole or rip happens or a sole comes off."
Shoe repair, leather working, sewing; they are all skills that require an artistic touch and trust that a craftsperson knows what they are doing. That, above anything else, is why John has survived for so long. He regularly told me throughout our talk of how many shops that were successful for decades have crumbled in the 21st century, either because of the pandemic or the sheer fact that many cobblers are on the older end, most retiring after years of doing the grueling work behind the magic of making your favorite piece like new. And the young are not jumping at the opportunity to be an apprentice, because, as said, it is a job of both art and heavy physical labor, especially if you want to do it right. In many ways, that's why the industry's size has shrunk, yet the end of the road has not come as long as there is demand, so I wanted to see where Mr. Elhilow thinks it will be in ten years.
"The future of shoe repair really is about keeping up with the materials that we would encounter. In ten, shoe repair will have FEWER shops, but they will be the BEST shops. The most knowledgeable will make it, [but] guys that don't stay updated and sophisticated will not survive."
Fifty?
"In fifty years, depending on how shoe construction changes, [I think] we'll be able to keep up. The molded type vulcanized soles, I do them, but a lot of shops don't want to take them on. I guess that, by then, things will change a lot. Who know's how many of cobblers will exist? Ultimately, if you're able to make people feel better, give people a better quality of life, that's the bottom line. That's why I like doing it. You have to have patience, and it can be tedious, but the reward is unbelievable. That's the only way shoe repair lives."
Cobblery is not dead, but it loses a little bit of itself each year. Of course, hope is there, and fortunately for most in Massachusetts, Elhilow is close(ish) by. He has two shops, one in Waltham called Superior Shoe & Boot Repair, and the other in Holliston titled John's Shoe & Boot Repair, the latter once being his father's. So, before you chuck your Chucks or bin your belt, give John a quick thought. Trust me, you won't regret it.
And, just for the sake of it, here's a silly slogan he gave me: "So, we have a little saying, 'Shoe Smarts: Shine, Maintain, and Repair Those Shoes!' It's a great thing, and if you can keep your footwear happy, it will make you a happier person." I mean, who could say no to that?
